Men’s fashion is constantly changing and contemporary tailoring tries to reflect a new idea of style. Shapes and cuts evolve in favor of a wardrobe with a spontaneous attitude, maintaining a perfect balance between dynamism and contemporary charm. So jackets and blazers become shorter and incredibly more skinny, shirts sides and armholes are narrower, trousers are cropped above the ankle: no garment is excluded.
Alongside confidence, the way you wear your clothes and, of course, the garments themselves, fit makes the biggest impact on your personal style and any outfit you choose to put together. So, also if cuts and designs become thinner, there’s something that never loses importance: the value of a great tailored fit. Speaking about trousers, traditional tailoring guidelines dictate one break at the front of your suit trousers and straight down at the back, with the hems just brushing the top of the heel, ensuring that the trouser drapes properly and maintains its shape. But what’s the current rule? How can a gentleman choose the proper trousers length?
A good starting point to understand what length to choose is definitely your body type. If you are rather thin and slim, you can easily wear a shorter and more tight on the ankles pair of trousers. They can even reach the height of the malleolus, leaving a few inches of socks in plain sight. Needless to say that this is a bold solution which meet strictly formal business dress codes, unless you are in a position to dictate the dress code of your office.
If you’re more short-limbed, shorter trousers are absolutely not recommended, as they can have the opposite effect of shorten your legs furthermore. You may prefer pants that, while standing, fully cover the socks and reach the height of your heels.
As with all things in life, do not overdo! If your pants are too short, someone might ask you if you’ve grown up in them! In addition, you have to pay particular attention to the color your socks: since they will always be in view they must harmonize with the lower part of your body (shoes, pants and belt).