Have you always wondered how long men’s trousers should be? There are a few simple rules that can help you decide which is the ideal length for your pants.
Men’s pants length also evolves
Men’s fashion is constantly changing and contemporary tailoring is committed to elaborate on a new idea of style and refinement.
To maintain a perfect balance between dynamism and contemporary charm, the measures of elegance evolve in favour of a wardrobe with a brisk attitude, suitable for everyday life.
Thus the jackets and blazers are shortened, the shirts shrink on the sides and in the armholes, and the trousers increasingly show the malleolus. No piece of clothing is left out.
If the cuts and designs get thinner, something that never loses importance is the value of a good fit. The waistline, the circumference on the hips, the pleats, the width of the bottom of the leg and its length are always decisive for the line of good trousers.
If at one time the tailoring rules dictated that the trousers covered two-thirds of the shoes, regardless of the shoe size, what is the current rule? How do you determine the length of the ideal pants for today’s gentlemen?
A good starting point to understand which length is right for everyone, aside from personal taste and the current trend is certainly the build. It is always important to know how to choose clothing according to your physique.
Pants length for a long-limbed physique
The rather thin and slender person can afford without reservation the shorter and narrower pants on the ankles, with a length that can even reach the height of the malleolus, leaving in sight a few centimetres of socks (or leg, if we are in the summer).
It is a bold look, which does not suit the most formal dress codes. Avoid when it comes to really important job interviews or meetings. Respecting the etiquette, even in the workplace, is still a plus that is not underestimated.
It also requires particular attention to the socks. Since they will always be in sight they will have to harmonize at best with the lower part of your body (shoes, pants and belt).
As with all things in life, however, do not overdo it: if you wear pants that are too short, you will run the risk of being asked if you grew up in it.
Pants length for a short physique
The shorter person, or those with pronounced calves, should refrain from reduced lengths, which have the effect of shortening the legs.
In this case, it is better to prefer trousers that, while standing, reach the upper of the shoes and totally cover the socks.
Trousers hem: with or without turn-up?
Generally, the hem of the trousers with turn-ups will give a more informal look to the outfit; the smooth hem is instead absolutely mandatory for more formal occasions when wearing formal dresses such as tuxedos, tailcoats or morning suits.
Trousers with turn-ups are particularly suitable for thin and slender body types and the standard measurements for the height of the cuff in men’s trousers are 4 or 5 centimetres, depending on your preferences and your height. If you are very tall you can afford to go up to 6 centimetres, thus balancing the proportions of your fit.
If, on the other hand, you have a short physique, the advice is to avoid the cuffed hem, which would have the effect of shortening and excessively weighing down your figure. Opt for a more linear cuffless hem, giving yourself an eye in the mirror you will immediately realize the difference!
Bottom of trousers: how wide should it be?
Finally, as for the width, there are no standard or mandatory measures. In practice, it is important that the trousers are wide enough not to “get caught” on the calf during movements and that they always allow the trousers to easily fall back in place.
If you want to wear a perfect pair of pants with proper length, try Lanieri’s tailored trousers.