We wear it to go to the office, for a special evening, for a cocktail with friends. And we love it in many different styles: elegant, informal, sporty, dandy. There are some that want one to wear on any occasions and some others that grant themselves one different for each occasion.
Men’s coat is the key garment for Winter and choosing the right one is easier than thought, you just need to keep in mind some characteristics such as: type, fabric, colour and style.
Here is a practical guide to choose the most suitable men’s coat based on the occasion and your own style, with a list of samples among which to choose and some little advices in order to avoid making mistakes.
All the types of elegant coats for men
The ultimate single-breasted coat. In London one of the first to adopt it in the middle of the Nineteenth century was the Count of Chesterfield. The new coat made a stir because it was missing the horizontal cut in the waist line that characterized the frock coat in use during that time. Since then, the model has practically remained the same: the subtle thin line; reverses of medium size; two horizontal pockets with braids and flaps; a breast pocket on the left side, optional; a slit on the back; length over the knees.
To be worn over professional clothing or evening suit. Usually realized in soft exquisite fabric, often in wool blend with cashmere or even in pure cashmere, in traditional grey or dark blue. P.N.: there is also a version with hidden pockets, known as Covert coat.
Very light, and therefor more suitable to be worn in Autumn; Trench is a traditional and timeless model. The utmost raincoat was realized in 1901 when the English War Ministry ordered a coat, which should have been in the mid way between an orderly raincoat and a military coat, to the Burberry company. Its name comes from the English trench coat. Its line evolved in time, surviving the different fashions for a hundred years. Traditionally realized in beige, its design is characterized by: shoulder pads, double-breast fastening, chin-strap, belt, triangular brim overlapping the fastening for a better latch.
An indisputable versatile garment, suitable for formal and informal situations.
“Loden” it’s the name of the antique fabric realized in the Austrian Tyrol, in matted and waterproof wool, with which it’s made the famous green pine coloured coat from where it takes its name. This traditional type of coat, typical of students, intellectuals and middle class of the 60s and 70s, has a shirt collar, buttons in braided leather or in bone, armhole hidden by stitched flaps, a long fold on the back, that opens from the top, slanting pockets with flaps, bands with buttons at the end of the sleeves.
Comfortable and suitable for any age, to be chosen in the more actual and juvenile samples. To be worn in your free time.
Also known as Caban, the Peacoat it’s the so called sailor’s heavy coat. Worn since the beginning of the Seventeenth century by sailors from the North of Europe, North America, realized in a blue heavy fabric. The traditional line demands: a double-breasted line with six big buttons; large reverses to be fastened with a chin-strap; vertical pockets to warm your hands; length to hips.
A short men’s coat so fascinating and so casual, not suitable for versatile looks like going to the office and free time.
It’s the essential elegant coat for the Winter, the utmost expression of a tailor’s ability. Named after the homonymous Irish Northern province. A martial sample with a strong personality: large reverses, eight buttons, shirt like sleeves with hand-made stitches; pockets with flaps; cuffs with half-belts; back box pleat with slit; and to the sides of the box pleat, two deep pleats; an elegant half-belt; horn buttons; length below the knees.
Therefore, a well-formed and important coat, designed for someone that loves a more formal elegance suitable for all business contexts.
A garment with a character, designed by Belgian sailors using the heavy woollen fabric made in Duffel, place near Anvers, and for his convenience also chosen by the English Navy. It’s called Montgomery, after the English General Bernard Law Montgomery, the hero of El Alamein, who didn’t miss any occasions to wear it, transforming it into a timeless tradition. Hood, yoke with stitched fold, frog fastening, two big pockets applied and stitched; the lining, often made of tartan; the wide and comfortable line; length to half thigh.
A coat with a strong casual mark, loved by the young for his comfort and length and because of its sporty characterization due to the hood.
This garment takes its name from the English General, Sir Henry Havelock, who started using it in middle of the Nineteenth Century. It’s a wide and long coat, designed for very cold weathers; it has a cape, known as “pilgrim”, that goes down from the collar to the elbow and can be buttoned up on the front. Often found realized in loden. It was a classic of the Victorian tradition, attributed in an apocryphal way to Sherlock Holmes together with the hunting hat Deerstalker.
A distinctive look, suitable for casual and less city-like situations.
Fabrics for the Winter coat
Men’s coats are available in a wide choice of fabrics: starting from the ones 100% natural, single fibre or mixed, reaching up to technical fabrics. Excluding the less traditional high-tech fibres, which contain polyurethane, the fabrics that must be looked into are the more natural ones, realized with animal fibres such as wool or cashmere.
Wool is a very good choice not only because it is warm and resistant, but also because it lasts for a long time. If you are willing to invest a bit more for your coat, cashmere is the best option: generally warmer, softer and brighter. That’s not all. To meet all the tastes, modern woollen mills offer a wide range of mixed fabrics to choose from, that combine the more classic fibres to the less known ones like cashgora, angora, and llama.
Colours to wear
As well as for suits, also for coats the most worn colours are the darker ones. Starting from the most formal black, to the classical business charcoal grey, up to the more versatile navy blue. All these three must colours respect the rules of formality, are easily matched, and adapt to a wide range of contexts. Another advantage, not to be underestimated about the dark colours it’s that they don’t easily get dirty.
For those who are afraid of getting bored with wearing always the same colours, and those who can afford to buy another coat, there are some good news. Pied de poule, bouclè weave, Prince of Wales, herringbone, bordeaux: Autumn/Winter menswear it’s rich in patterns and colours it can deal with savoir faire, and it’s suitable for all informal occasions and tastes.
Measures for the perfect coat
Length: generally, men’s coats are available in two lengths: whole length and ¾. As a general rule, a long men’s coat covers ¾ of the height of the person that wears it, adding masculinity, earnestness and reliability to the image. This type of coat is often chosen by men who love a more classic, traditional and formal style, and by very tall men, because the length of the coat visually compensates the “excessive” height. The short men’s coat (called ¾), with a length that varies between the knees and the pockets of the trousers, it’s usually chosen by younger men, who love a more dynamic and less formal look.
Fit: Also in this case as for suits, the optimum fit of a men’s elegant coat it’s an essential characteristic. Depending on the preferences, you can decide whether you want a more close-fitting garment, that follows the body line, and with a more waisted design, or one that lets you a bit more free to move. Any line your coat has, it is important that the length of the sleeves, the width of the chest and the height of the pockets are matching with your measures.
The style of a men’s coat
The main dilemma about the style is always one: is it better to choose a single-breasted coat or double-breasted coat? This last type of coat it’s considered the most dandy, and it is so for the most sensitive to the changes in fashion, less appropriate for who thinks about wearing the same coat for the future years to come. If you have to choose the coat that will be the only and final one of your Winter wardrobe, it’s better that you focus your attention to a single-breasted coat, with a simpler and less complicated style, more easily adaptable to seasonal tendencies.
Why should you choose a tailored coat?
1.Because it fits perfectly. The length and width of the sleeves, the breast width…. The tailored fit it’s able to bring out the shape of your body, without having to give up comfort.
2.Because it lasts for a long time. Starting from the creation of the coat up to the materials used: every sartorial detail contributes to a tailor-made coat.
3.Because you can personalize it in every detail: from the type of fastening to the colour of the internal lining, up to the type of buttons.
4.Because it is realized with the best fabrics. In Lanieri we manufacture our tailor-made coats entirely in Italy, exclusively using Italian certified fabrics.
The 4 coats to deal with Winter
Have fun customizing your next tailored coat online.
Find the right style for you!
This article is also available in: Italian