How to choose a men’s overcoat for winter: everything you need to know

men’s coat

We wear it to go to the office, for a special evening, for a cocktail with friends. And we love it in many different styles: elegant, informal, sporty, dandy. There are some that want one to wear on any occasions and some others that grant themselves one different for each occasion.

Men’s overcoat is the key garment for Winter and choosing the right one is easier than thought, you just need to keep in mind some characteristics such as: type, fabric, colour and style.

Here is a practical guide to choose the most suitable men’s overcoat based on the occasion and your own style, with a list of samples among which to choose and some little advices in order to avoid making mistakes.

All the types of elegant overcoats for men

Chesterfield

Chesterfield coatThe ultimate single-breasted overcoat. In London one of the first to adopt it in the middle of the Nineteenth century was the Count of Chesterfield. The new overcoat made a stir because it was missing the horizontal cut in the waist line that characterized the frock overcoat in use during that time. Since then, the model has practically remained the same: the subtle thin line; reverses of medium size; two horizontal pockets with braids and flaps; a breast pocket on the left side, optional; a slit on the back; length over the knees.

To be worn over professional clothing or evening suit. Usually realized in soft exquisite fabric, often in wool blend with cashmere or even in pure cashmere, in traditional grey or dark blue. P.N.: there is also a version with hidden pockets, known as Covert overcoat.

 

Trench

Trench coatVery light, and therefor more suitable to be worn in Autumn; Trench is a traditional and timeless model. The utmost raincoat was realized in 1901 when the English War Ministry ordered a coat, which should have been in the mid way between an orderly raincoat and a military coat, to the Burberry company. Its name comes from the English trench coat. Its line evolved in time, surviving the different fashions for a hundred years. Traditionally realized in beige, its design is characterized by: shoulder pads, double-breast fastening, chin-strap, belt, triangular brim overlapping the fastening for a better latch.

An indisputable versatile garment, suitable for formal and informal situations.

 

Loden

Loden overcoat“Loden” it’s the name of the antique fabric realized in the Austrian Tyrol, in matted and waterproof wool, with which it’s made the famous green pine coloured overcoat from where it takes its name. This traditional type of overcoat, typical of students, intellectuals and middle class of the 60s and 70s, has a shirt collar, buttons in braided leather or in bone, armhole hidden by stitched flaps, a long fold on the back, that opens from the top, slanting pockets with flaps, bands with buttons at the end of the sleeves.

Comfortable and suitable for any age, to be chosen in the more actual and juvenile samples. To be worn in your free time.

 

Peacoat

Pea coatAlso known as Caban, the Peacoat it’s the so called sailor’s heavy coat. Worn since the beginning of the Seventeenth century by sailors from the North of Europe, North America, realized in a blue heavy fabric. The traditional line demands: a double-breasted line with six big buttons; large reverses to be fastened with a chin-strap; vertical pockets to warm your hands; length to hips.

A short men’s overcoat so fascinating and so casual, not suitable for versatile looks like going to the office and free time.

 

Ulster

Ulster coatIt’s the essential elegant overcoat for the Winter, the utmost expression of a tailor’s ability. Named after the homonymous Irish Northern province. A martial sample with a strong personality: large reverses, eight buttons, shirt like sleeves with hand-made stitches; pockets with flaps; cuffs with half-belts; back box pleat with slit; and to the sides of the box pleat, two deep pleats; an elegant half-belt; horn buttons; length below the knees.

Therefore, a well-formed and important overcoat, designed for someone that loves a more formal elegance suitable for all business contexts.

 

duffel coatDuffel coat (Montgomery)

A garment with a character, designed by Belgian sailors using the heavy woollen fabric made in Duffel, place near Anvers, and for his convenience also chosen by the English Navy. Duffel coat is also known as Montgomery, after the English General Bernard Law Montgomery, the hero of El Alamein, who didn’t miss any occasions to wear it, transforming it into a timeless tradition. Hood, yoke with stitched fold, frog fastening, two big pockets applied and stitched; the lining, often made of tartan; the wide and comfortable line; length to half thigh.

A coat with a strong casual mark, loved by the young for his comfort and length and because of its sporty characterization due to the hood.

 

Havelock

Havelock overcoatThis garment takes its name from the English General, Sir Henry Havelock, who started using it in middle of the Nineteenth Century. It’s a wide and long overcoat, designed for very cold weathers; it has a cape, known as “pilgrim”, that goes down from the collar to the elbow and can be buttoned up on the front. Often found realized in loden. It was a classic of the Victorian tradition, attributed in an apocryphal way to Sherlock Holmes together with the hunting hat Deerstalker.

A distinctive look, suitable for casual and less city-like situations.

 

 

Fabrics for the Winter overcoat

Men’s overcoats are available in a wide choice of fabrics: starting from the ones 100% natural, single fibre or mixed, reaching up to technical fabrics. Excluding the less traditional high-tech fibres, which contain polyurethane, the fabrics that must be looked into are the more natural ones, realized with animal fibres such as wool or cashmere. Here are ones commonly found:

Wool

Wool is a great choice not only because it is warm and durable, but also because it lasts longer. The most classic option ever, suitable for all profiles and all circumstances.

Cashmere

If you are willing to invest a little more on your custom coat, cashmere is a great alternative. It is generally warmer, softer and more luminous, this fine fabric ensures timeless elegance and essential comfort.

Blends

To cater to all kinds needs, the modern woollen mills offer a wide range of blends to choose from, combining the very classic fibres with the less popular ones like cashgora, alpaca, angora, and lama. The end result is soft, warm fabrics with endless practical properties.

Colours to wear

As well as for suits, also for overcoats, the most worn colours are the darker ones. Starting from the most formal black, to the classical business charcoal grey, up to the more versatile navy blue. All these three must colours respect the rules of formality, are easily matched, and adapt to a wide range of contexts. Here are the most used classic colours:

Black

A black coat is a classic style that is worn over and over again. One of the real must-haves in every man’s wardrobe. Can be customised with three-button fastening, slanted pockets and single back slit. An elegant design also suitable for more formal occasions.

Anthracite grey

Something traditional and versatile, a great alternative to the usual blue. An anthracite grey coat is always a good investment. Try the double-breasted version with peak lapels, chest pocket, flap pockets, ticket pocket and back fixed belt (called “martingale”).

Navy blue

It is a coat for those looking for a timeless winter coat that will never go out of fashion. The navy blue coat is the favourite choice for men all over the world, a style solution that is suitable for both work and leisure time. Even in this case, a very traditional customisation is also the most practical one: classic single-breasted three-button style with slanted pockets and a single back slit.

Camel

A camel coat is an exceptional blend of sophistication, retro elegance and contemporary eclecticism. However, not all the options on the market can well represent the charm of this icon. To achieve the ideal combination, a skilful mixture of 3 elements is required for the ensemble to function: quality of raw material, a bright colour and delicate attention to detail. Also, in this case, the double-breasted style with lapels, a chest pocket, flap pockets and a martingale are an absolute must.

The 3 Autumn/Winter 2018-2019 Lanieri trends

Pied de poule, bouclé weave, Prince of Wales, herringbone, wool, cashmere, blends: the menswear Autumn Winter is rich in patterns and colours to the test of savoir-faire, suitable for all tastes and all occasions. Here are the 3 tailored coats from Lanieri to have this winter:

The smart choice: Traveller Green Macro Herringbone Coat

Wool, cotton and cashmere: we have used them all! Made with the softest and most precious fibres and worked with a process that can make it resistant to water, the Traveller Green Macro Herringbone Coat is essential for mid-season. A classic pattern revisited in a macro key, suitable for business and leisure occasions.

The fabric produced by Tessitura di Quaregna – 50% Wool 45% Cotton 5% Cashmere

The vintage choice: Brown Prince of Wales Coat

Made in Italy from a soft wool fabric, Brown Prince of Wales Coat was created to give a touch of elegance to the winter wardrobe. It is a very soft fabric, perfect to wear in the city for work or during the weekend.

The fabric produced by Tallia di Delfino – 100% Wool

The versatile choice: Blue Design Coat

The Blue Design coat is entirely made in Italy with a wool and cashmere fabric with a modern and discreet design. It will keep you warm with elegance and style on most of the business occasions or on the most exclusive events.

The fabric produced by Drago – 95% Wool 5% Cashmere 

Measures for the perfect overcoat

Length

Generally, men’s overcoats are available in two lengths: whole length and ¾. As a general rule, a long men’s overcoat covers ¾ of the height of the person that wears it, adding masculinity, earnestness and reliability to the image.

This type of overcoat is often chosen by men who love a more classic, traditional and formal style, and by very tall men, because the length of the overcoat visually compensates the “excessive” height. The short men’s overcoat (called ¾), with a length that varies between the knees and the pockets of the trousers, it’s usually chosen by younger men, who love a more dynamic and less formal look.

Fit

Also in this case as for suits, the optimum fit of a men’s elegant overcoat it’s an essential characteristic. Depending on the preferences, you can decide whether you want a more close-fitting garment, that follows the body line, and with a more waisted design, or one that lets you a bit more free to move. Any line your overcoat has, it is important that the length of the sleeves, the width of the chest and the height of the pockets are matching with your measures.

The style of a men’s overcoat

single or double breasted overcoat
Single-breasted overcoat or double-breasted overcoat

The main dilemma about the style is always one: is it better to choose a single-breasted overcoat or double-breasted overcoat?

Double-breasted

This style of coat is considered the most “dandy”, for most of us, it is also the most interesting one. On the one hand, it is formal enough to be worn over a suit; on the other, it looks splendid in street-style version paired with casual weekend suits like jeans and turtleneck sweaters.

Single-breasted

Those who want to choose a unique and definitive coat of their winter wardrobe, it is best to turn their attention to the single-breasted coats, with a simpler and less characterised style, easily adapts to the changing seasonal trends.

Why should you choose a tailored overcoat?

  1. Because it fits perfectly. The length and width of the sleeves, the breast width… The tailored fit it’s able to bring out the shape of your body, without having to give up comfort.
  2. Because it lasts for a long time. Starting from the creation of the overcoat up to the materials used: every sartorial detail contributes to a tailor-made overcoat.
  3. Because you can personalize it in every detail: from the type of fastening to the colour of the internal lining, up to the type of buttons.
  4. Because it is realized with the best fabrics. In Lanieri we manufacture our tailor-made overcoats entirely in Italy, exclusively using Italian certified fabrics.

 

Have fun customizing your next tailored overcoat online.

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